very nice... should look sweet as once it's complete! you doing the entire car or just the bonnet???

more pics[attachment=5]side before.JPG[/attachment][attachment=4]side during.JPG[/attachment]

haha I guess that answers my question then! :guitar:

doing the whole car steve, should only take a few days to get all the paint off... hopefully, because i dont want to have it bare for too long

painting tips:
mix som colour into the first fue cotes of clear

i was thinking that, wasnt sure where i heard it but always thought it would be a good idea, i'll most probably do it now

i'm also deleting the rear wiper and squirter, aerial, bonnet squirters, i've already done the side indicators, and i'll be rolling badgeless

sounds like my car...

Lol yea de-badging is the way to go, then people really don't know what it is.

After you shake the hell out of the can and do a few test sprays, cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The thickness should be built up using several thin layers of primer rather than one thick one. Using 600-grit wet or dry sandpaper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is very smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly rinsed with water and the wet or dry sandpaper periodically rinsed aswell. Allow the primer to dry before spraying additional coats.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Begin spraying in the centre.

Remove all masking material 10-15minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden fully. finally apply a coat of wax and you're all done.

looking good.... tis a daunting process at first... you using 2 pac or acrylic? ive got a neighbour ive been helping with his old ht ute so he can return the favor when i go there.... he reckons acrylic is much easier to use.. but ya gotta sand between each coat for the best finish

make sure you have your gun pressure rite aswell... go using to much air and the paint dries before it hits the car... by the time its finished your gonna have a BUFF sanding arm.. hehe

j

wicked work. Maximum effort equals maximum reward.

Make sure you post more pics as you go.

-Matt

Looking good.........I know what your going through I "bare metalled" Bitza years ago..........It's all worth it in the end.

Here's a pic:

thanks for the support guys

hey andrew that looks good, how long did it take to get it all finished

jimi, i'll be using acrylic, but i was under the impression, as long as you start with a smooth prepped surface, all the layers of paint go on without letting each one dry completely, that way they stick together, or is that a 2 pac thing, i'm not really sure as i have never actually painted top coats on a car before, but i'm positive i'm going to do a good job. i've been doing heaps of research. i'm picking up a high volume low pressure gravity fed spray gun to lay the paint, and i'll only use my cheap one for putting down the spray putty

Good luck with the whole painting process.. Looking good so far..
I recommend not going bare metal everywhere as I don't think cordias were ever straight everywhere as I found out painting my second cordia. In the same spots too. Maybe just use a very rough pad and not a paint stripper pad..
Here's a pic of my cordia bout 3 weeks back.

Have you noticed that Cordias are renouned for having a very small dent a few centimetres under the petrol flap?? All of mine have had it in the same place, could be a New Zealand thing :? lol

mine has one too... maybe its a fault in the pressing of the panels?

That's good to know, now I know it's not just my bad luck lol. Must of been a manufacturing problem for all of them. Anyone elses like that?? I'd say if ours are, then everyones would be.

some more pics, got 95% of the paint off, had a bit of a rest and got back into it. should have it done by the weekend and hopefully get some etch primer on it, then i can look over it and sus out where any minor dings are... getting there anyway

I just had a good look at my car's body under the petrol flap, appears straight to me... what exactly are you guys referring to? am I looking in the same place???

Lookin really good brissy 8), looks like alot of hard work has gone into it.

The place I'm referring to is just below the petrol flap, hold up I'll run outside and have a look to be dead sure.....

Actually it's just to the left of the petrol flap

My quarter panel was fine...........when I removed all the paint the panel was straight..........maybe the petrol door has been forced to far back creasing the panel?

It's a little to far away to of been made from being bent back but I was thinking that someone could of just knocked the petrol pump nozzle on it after filling up and made the dent that way. But it's highly unlikely that happened on all 4 of my Cordias in the exact same place. Plus Raffs one.

On both my cordias i had imperfections on the roof (both sides) right above the rear windows. also in front of both rear arches.
Seemed like it had bog there. It's on both of my cordia's, on both sides, AB and AC.
Can anyone else confirm the same?

mine has been resprayed before, quite poorly too, thats why it crackled in areas. but i havn't found anything that looks like it had been patched at the factory. i have found some bogged dints in the car from the previous paint job which i will remove and re-apply due to the fact that it wasn't really applied that well and little rust spots have formed underneath it. so once i get all the paint off i will condition the whole car with phosphoric acid (rust convertor) which makes the metal work look really clean and new. i'll give that a chance to absorb and then give it a good clean down with solvent and apply the etch primer

i'm looking for a list of things to grab at the "all you can carry for $50" day at my local wreckers on australia day.

so far i'm looking at:
-tp front bumper (to carry everything in)
-sonata multipoint manifold
-tp brakes (discs, calipers, booster)
-excel clutch cylinder (if manifold interferes with the cylinder on a 1.8 )
-linkage rod from gearstick to gearbox

my nephew is going to carry a cordia gearbox and the cv's

what else should i look for or would be handy to have

Front end parts, headlights and parklights.........people always want them. 8)

Try and get the E101, AFM, alternator etc, people usually need the electrical items alot.

Oh yea and if it's got sideskirts, EVERYBODY wants those ;)

i'll try and grab the head lights, park lights, afm. my nephew already copped the alternator last time we were there, and it has no boost or knock sensor or that would have gone straight in my pocket like the 5th gear solanoid... ooops, i hope they're not ready this, i might rip the ecu and wiring loom out aswell. it had no side skirts and only one rear pod

Has it got the Cordia mudflaps?? Believe it or not but they were an optional extra lol. Yeah the ECU would be good to take, I've got two here and I can't even sell them for $40 each but theres alot more Cordias over there so hopefully you will have more luck. Someone will bound to need the wiring loom aswell, like the bloke who joined the other day puttin a 62 into his Colt :). Oh and wear a hat when you go, it's an extra place to put little things. Thats what I do when I go to pick a part :twisted: lol.

yes the mud flaps, i was going to grab them last time i was there but i thought i'd wait, i actually cut mine trying to incorporate them into a side skirt (failed)

Lol at least you tried. Another thing is to wear large thick socks, they are perfect for hiding fusible links down :D