Still fighting this wierd problem, 1st, 2nd seem to be ok, but when I hit third gear floored the car starts to miss then the car jerks and cuts out, only to jerk forward again and it seems to go back and forth until you've had enough and let off the gas. On the freeway the o2 sensor maxes out at .79 volts. It jumps around when idling. I have cut the turbo yellow wire and actually opened the waste gate and it still cuts out. I do see 60 pounds of fuel pressure which is direct pressure from the pump as I don't have anything to hook up while the car is running. Spark plug 3 saw the middle broke off or worn down. It does seem to have a definite cylinder miss when it starts to cut out. Very iritating problem for me. Replace the E101 but it wasn't the same year or part number, I dont know if that is the problem. Any clues would be nice.
Thanks
I did a compression check and here are the numbers
1=120,2=120,3=120,4=140 190,000 miles
90,000 miles ago it was
1=140,2=150,3=150,4=150 100,000 miles
When I started it this morning there was no miss around the block, on my second lap around the block flooring it, it started to miss. So I'm thinking its not compression but I'm only a shade tree mechanic. I'm still wondering about the fuel pump.
What colour are your spark plugs when you remove them?
They are either White: Lean........Brown/Tan: OK.............Black/Sooty: Burning oil/too rich.
I see sootie oily, but on the middle part they do look a little brown. Take a look.
That first plug in the video is f%^ked!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Something has gone Very, Very wrong in that cylinder.......half the electrode is missing!!!!
Put some new plugs in it............but from what I have seen the miss will still be there.
I thought for sure that was going to fix it, but no difference at all.
UPDATE: I just installed a new fuel pump, the old one was drawing 1.6 amps and the new one draws 3 amps. I still have my doubts but will let you know if that happens to fix it.
Car is still a jerk!
Update again: I followed the manual to disconnect the pressure sensor and then the knock sensor which throws it into fail safe mode and retards the timing by 6 degrees. Car ran perfect. I then adjusted the timing to where it should be and it still ran fine. I also did the tap on the knock sensor and was supposed to see the timing retard and nothing happened. I am wondering is the knock sensor is bad and the ignition e101 module thinks something is wrong and attempts to slow the engine and eventually shut it down momentarily. Any thoughts on this?
Replace the E101 but it wasn't the same year or part number]quote
All of the E101's are the same............if the E101 didn't "see" the knock sensor then detonation would occur, a faulty knock sensor will not give you the "miss"............a working one will reduce power by retarding timing.............I still say you have a piston with broken ring lands, I know from experience.
Hey mate do you think there is any harm in running with the pressure sensor disconnected and the knock sensor disconnected because it runs fine that way. Unless its messing with me and you are correct about the engine, I thought I would run the timing retarted a little as to prevent any knocking which I haven't heard for years.
My second question is I am losing 2 volts to the computer and various other conponents. the battery has 14.48 volts and the computer has only 12volts. Seems like I am losing 2 volts in the key switch or somewhere.
Thanks
Hummm..........so the car runs WITHOUT an AFM and it's MAP sensor?
That's not right as the engine can't determine load.........it shouldn't run at all.
As for the ECU 12 Volt is correct.........it's regulated by the main control relay, are other components like the coolant temp sensor recieving 5 volts?
I only learned this because it says to perform these tests in the manual. I found a totorial on youtube and the knock sensor is a pizzo electric device that puts out voltage when it hears noise. My knock sensor is putting out .5 volts. Wow must be a noisey old engine.
4.76Volts is present when I discconect the coollant temp sensor plug, 3.78Volts is present connected. As I was measuring it, it jumped back to 4.76. Hmm I have a bad coolant sensor, when I twist it around it goes from 3.78 to 4.76. According to my manual 3.5V is when it is 35degrees and its only 60 outside, which the manual says it should be 2.6volts. Now for the first time I have a code 7 pointing to the coolant sensor, so I will replace it. After playing around with it, it is now open.
Another Update: I replaced the coolant sensor and the 170 degree thermostat to a 180 degrees. When I took the sensor apart, I'm not sure how it was able to function correctly as bits of rusty colored stuff came out. With everything hooked up the car did not cut out once. It appears it was the coolant sensor so thanks to all or the one in this case for your help.
sounds kinda like what m y car is doing but iiits cuts out and jerks faster. I have it running fine and it starts right up. Fist gear will pull hard, then about mid second gear it will starts to hesitate just slightly, and then when you try to get on the highway she starts bucking under load very bad, and you cannot keep up speed. You let off and it will die, butr if you keep it running then you can manage to limp off the freeway and it will drive pretty good in first and not soo bad in second.
I've replaced cts, fuel pump, fuel filters, mas, checked injectors, fpr, plugs wires etc.. I;ve also tried a few starion e101s
The only thing I havent changed is the knock sensor computer and dizzy, but I jhave thouroughly went through the dizzy
One of the only things I could wonder if it could be are a malfunctioning injector, bad computer, or somehow that knoick sensor is causing the car to act all retarded. ;m throwing zero codes. No boost leaks and excellent fuel pressure. and it will run mid 7lbs of boost with a slight spike to 8. funny thing is half the time it startrs bucking it's only around 3 or 4lbns and around 4krpm..
I also gotta say to the thread starter. Wow another turbo corida that actually lives in the states!
UPDATE:
Well this has been fun, after replacing the clutch, seals and rebuilding the turbo waste gate, the engine decide to miss on cylinder one. I pulled out the jet valve to see if it failed but it was fine. Now I need a new engine as I think I lost a ring and compression is 50 compared to 150 a month agao. I lost my job last year so I'm open for cheap ideas on how to fix this one.
Thanks
The answer is here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNKJugmkj-A
After pulling the head tonight, the valve has a chunk missing about the size of an pencil eraser. WOW!

Location
Middle of spark plug "broke off"...........that's not good, your engine has been running lean and cylinder 3 has detonated...........you may have broken all the ring lands on that piston, this will be your MISS due to compression loss.
I would give your engine a compression check before proceeding with fault finding electrical components.
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This thing will decimate all.......once I've put another fifteen grand into it!