Valve cover (Rocker Cover)

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. Detach the spark plug wires and cable brackets from the valve cover.
4. Clearly label and the disconnect any emission hoses and cables which connect to or cross over the valve cover.
5. Remove the valve cover bolts and lift the cover off. If the cover sticks to the cylinder head, tap on it with a soft face hammer or place a block of wood against the cover and tap on the wood with a hammer.
6. Thoroughly clean the valve cover and remove all traces of old gasket material.
7. Install a new gasket on the cover, using RTV to hold it in place. Place the cover on the engine and install the cover bolts. Note: Be sure to install a new semi-circular seal into the cylinder head. Apply a small amount of sealant to the bottom of the seal and, after it has been installed, to the top of the seal, at the seal-to-head joint.
8. Tighten the bolts, the remaining steps are the reverse of removal. When finished, run the engine and check for oil leaks.

 

Rocker Arm Assembly
Removal

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Position the number one piston at Top Dead Centre.
3. Loosen the rocker arm shaft mounting bolts 1/4 turn at a time each until the spring pressure is relieved. Remove the bolts.
4. Lift the rocker arms and shaft assembly, or the individual rocker arms, from the cylinder head.

 

Inspection

1. If you wish to disassemble and inspect the rocker arm assemblies (a good idea as long as you have them off), remove the retaining bolts and slip the rocker arms and springs off the shafts. Keep the parts in order so you reassemble them in the same positions.
2. Thoroughly clean the parts and inspect them for wear or damage. Check the rocker cover arm faces that contact the camshaft and the adjusting screw tips.

 

Installation

1. On rocker arms with adjusting screws, loosen the locknuts and back off the adjusters until they only protrude 1mm (0.040inch).
2. Lubricate all components with assembly lube or engine oil and reassemble the shafts. When installing the new rocker arms, shafts and springs, note the markings and the difference between the left and the right side parts. Position the notches in the ends of the shafts up.
3. If removed, insert the hydraulic valve adjusters into the rocker arms and wrap tape around the ends of the rocker arms to prevent the adjusters from falling out.
4. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the cylinder head and install the mounting bolts finger tight. Check the markings on the caps to identify the correct journal number and intake/exhaust position. Don't forget to remove the tape from the adjusters if you have done so.
5. Tighten the bolts in several stages until the specified torque is reached. (check torque specification thread)
6. On adjustable type rocker arms, adjust the valve clearances (cold).
7. Temporarily install the valve cover and run the engine until it is fully warmed up.
8. Readjust the valves while the engine is still warm.
9. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
10. Run the engine and check for oil leaks and proper operation.

 

Valve Springs, Retainers and Seals - Replacement

Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stems can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so read through this section carefully and rent or buy the tools before beginning the job. If compressed air isn't available, a length of nylon rope can be used to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder during this procedure.
1. Remove the valve cover
2. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder which has the defective component. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the spark plugs should be removed.
3. Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at top dead centre on the compression stroke. If you're replacing all the valve stems, begin with cylinder number one and work on the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move from cylinder to cylinder following the firing order sequence.
4. Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect and air hose from a compressed air source to it.
5. Remove the rocker arm shaft, unless you are using a lever type tool.
6. Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to turn suddenly. If the wrench used when positioning the number one piston at TDC is still attached to the bolt in the crankshaft nose, it could cause damage or injury when the crankshaft moves.
7. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. If the valve faces or seats are in poor condition, leaks may prevent air pressure from retaining the valves - refer to the alternative procedure below.
8. If you don't have access to compressed air, an alternative method can be used. Position the piston at a point a few degrees before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber. Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so it can be removed easily. Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt.
9. Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Note: A couple of different types of tools are available for compressing the valve springs with the head in place. One type grips the lower spring coils and the rocker arm shaft for leverage. Both types work very well, although the lever type is usually less expensive.
10. Remove the spring retainer and valve spring, then remove the guide seal. Note: If air pressure fails to hold the valve in the closed position during this operation, the valve face and/or seat is probably damaged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be removed for additional repair operations.
11. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite normal rotation.
12. Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement, which would indicate that the valve is bent.
13. Move the valve up and down in the guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the head will have to be removed for repair.
14. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until slight resistance is felt.
15. Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil and install new guide seal.
16. Install the spring in position over the valve.
17. Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully position the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary.
18. Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated.
19. Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out of the cylinder.
20. Install the rocker arms and shafts.
21. Install the spark plug(s) and connect the wire(s).
22. Install the valve cover.
23. Start and run the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area.

 

Hydraulic Valve Adjusters

Note: Since the hydraulic valve adjusters are precision parts, do not allow any dirt or other contaminants to enter. Do not attempt to disassemble a hydraulic adjuster. Use only clean diesel oil to prime the adjusters.
1. Remove the rocker arm assemblies and pull the adjusters from the rocker arms. Be sure to keep them in order so they can be returned to their original positions.
2. One at a time,submerge and adjuster in a container filled with diesel oil. Using a rigid wire(such as a straightened out paper clip) inserted through the hole in the top of the adjuster, lightly hold down the steel ball and move the plunger up and down approximately four or five times. Remove the wire and push the plunger forcefully with your finger. If the plunger moves even a slight amount, the adjuster still has air inside. If the plunger still moves, repeat the previous steps and try to bleed the air out again. If the adjuster does not respond, replace it with a new one. Caution: Once the hydraulic adjuster had been properly bled, be sure to hold it in an upright position and don't allow diesel oil to spill out.
3. Assemble the adjusters into the rocker arms. Install the valve cover and related components.
4. Occasionally, the adjuster might not get completely bled and could be noisy when the engine is first started. If this happens, the air can be bled by slowly raising the speed of the engine from idle to 3,000rpm for one minute. If the adjuster(s) do not become silent, replace the defective ones.

 

Cordia:

1983 - G62B (1.8L) - Adjustable with jet valve.
1984 and 1985 - G62B Turbo (1.8L) - Adjustable with jet valve.
1984 and 1985 - G63B (2.0L) - Adjustable with jet valve.
1985 to 1988 - G62B Turbo (1.8L) - Hydraulic with jet valve.
1985 to 1988 - G63B (2.0L) - Hydraulic with jet valve.

 

Crankshaft Front Oil Seal

1. Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft sprocket.
2. Wrap the tip of a small screwdriver with tape. Working from below the left inner fender, use the screwdriver to pry the seal out of its bore. Take care to prevent damaging the crankshaft and the seal bore.
3. Thoroughly clean and inspect the seal bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft. Minor imperfections can be removed with emery cloth. If there is a groove worn in the crankshaft sealing surface(from contact with the seal), installing a new seal will probably not stop the leak. Such wear normally indicates the internal engine components are also worn. Consider overhauling the engine.
4. Lubricate the new seal with engine oil and drive the seal into place with a hammer and socket.
5. Reinstall the timing belt and related components.
6. Run the engine, checking for oil leaks.

 

Camshaft
Removal

1. Position the number one piston at top dead centre.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Remove the distributor.
5. Drain the cooling system and disconnect the upper radiator hose from thermostat housing.
6. Remove the timing belt and camshaft sprocket.
7. Wrap some tape around the end of a small screwdriver and use it to pry out the camshaft oil seal. Be careful not to damage the seal bore or the sealing surface on the camshaft.
8. Detach the rocker arm assembly.
9. To gain clearance, unbolt the windscreen washer reservoir and set it aside. Slip the camshaft out of the cylinder head toward the transaxle end of the engine.

 

Inspection

1. Thoroughly clean the camshaft, the rear cover plate and the gasket surfaces.
2. Visually inspect the camshaft for wear and/or damage to the distributor drive gear, lobe surfaces, bearing journals and seal contact surfaces. Visually inspect the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head for scoring and other damage.
3. Measure the camshaft lobe heights (should be 42.08mm).
4. Measure the camshafts bearing journal diameters, then measure the inside diameter of the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head, using a telescoping gauge. Subtract the journal measurement from the bearing measurement to obtain the camshaft bearing oil clearance.
5. Replace the camshaft if it fails any of the above inspections. Note: If the distributor drive gear is faulty, replace the driven gear also. If the lobes are worn, replace the rocker arms along with the camshaft. Cylinder head replacement may be necessary if the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head are damaged or excessively worn.

 

Installation

1. Liberally coat the journals and thrust portions of the camshaft with assembly lube or engine oil.
2. Carefully install the camshaft in the cylinder head.
3. Coat a new camshaft oil seal with engine oil and press it into place with a hammer and a deep socket.
4. Install the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolts.
5. Install the timing belt.
6. Install the rocker arm assembly.
7. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
8. Start the engine and allow it to warm up while you adjust the ignition timing.
9. Readjust the valve clearances.
10. Reinstall the valve cover and run the engine while checking for oil leaks.

 

Cylinder Head

1. Position the number one piston at top dead centre.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Drain the cooling system and remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the intake manifold.
5. Remove the exhaust manifold.
6. Remove the distributor, including the cap and wires.
8. Remove the timing belt (On some models this is not necessary).
9. Remove the valve cover.
10. Using an 8mm Allen head socket, loosen the cylinder head bolts, 1/4 turn at a time until they can be removed by hand.
11. Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up and place the head on wood blocks to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces. If the head sticks to the engine block, dislodge it by placing a block of wood against the head casting and tapping the wood with a hammer or by prying the head with a pry bar placed carefully on the casting protrusion.
12. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the block and head. Do not allow anything to fall into the engine. Clean and inspect all threaded fasteners and be sure the threaded holes in the block are clean and dry.

 

Installation

1. Place a new gasket and the cylinder head in position. Note: Position the identification mark facing up and on the timing belt end of the engine block.
2. The cylinder head bolts should be tightened in several stages following the proper sequence.
3. Reinstall the timing belt.
4. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
5. Be sure to refill the cooling system and check all fluid levels. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise slowly by hand through two complete revolutions. Recheck the camshaft timing marks.
6. Start the engine and set the ignition timing. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation. Shut off the engine. Remove the valve cover and re-torque the cylinder head bolts, unless the gasket manufacturer states otherwise. Recheck the valve adjustment if the engine is not equipped with hydraulic valve adjusters.

 

Oil Pan
Removal

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands.
3. Remove the splash pan under the drive-belt end of the engine, then remove the dipstick and drain the engine oil.
4. Unbolt the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Remove the bolts and lower the oil from the vehicle. If the pan is stuck, tap it with a soft face hammer or place a block of wood against the pan and tap the wood with a hammer.
6. Thoroughly clean the oil pan and sealing surfaces. Remove all traces of old gasket material. Check the oil pan sealing surface for distortion. Straighten or replace as necessary.

 

Installation

1. If the oil pan was sealed with RTV only (no gasket), apply a 4mm bead of RTV sealer to the oil pan flange. If you are using a gasket, apply a thin coat of RTV sealer to the oil pan flange and affix the gasket.
2. Place the oil pan into position and install the bolts finger tight. Working side to side from the centre out, tighten the bolts.
3. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
4. Refill the crankcase with the proper quantity and grade of oil and run the engine, checking for leaks. Road test the vehicle and check for leaks again.

 

Oil Pump

1. Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket.
2. Remove the oil pan.
3. Unbolt the oil pickup tube (screen) from the bottom of the pump housing.
4. Remove the pressure regulator plug, spring and plunger.
5. Remove the timing belt tensioner.
6. Remove the oil pump to block bolts noting the different lengths and locations of the bolts. Carefully separate the front case from the engine.
7. Detach the cover from the rear of the case and remove the inner and outer oil pump gears.
8. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the front case.

 

Inspection

1. clean all parts thoroughly and remove all traces of old gasket material from the sealing surfaces. Visually inspect all parts for wear, cracks and other damage. Replace parts as necessary. Pack the pump cavity with petroleum jelly and install the cover. Tighten the bolts. Note: Be sure to install the gears or rotor(s) with the mating marks in the correct place.

 

Installation

1. Install a new crankshaft front oil seal.
2. Install the pressure regulator valve components and tighten the plug securely.
3. Using a new gasket, position the pump on the engine. Install the bolts in their proper locations, according to length. Tighten the bolts.
4. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order or removal.
5. Add oil, start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks.

 

Flywheel/Drive-plate
Removal

1. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands and remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front seal.
2. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace clutch components.
3. The bolt holes are either staggered or symmetrical on the flywheel/driveplate bolt pattern. to ensure correct alignment during re-installation, mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft before removal.
4. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/drive-plate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring teeth to jam the flywheel.
5. Remove the flywheel/drive-plate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt.
6. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with an emery cloth. Check for cracked or broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage.
7. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/drive-plate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate.

 

Installation

1. Position the flywheel/drive-plate against the crankshaft. If the bolt holes aren't staggered, align the previous applied match-marks. Before installing the bolts, apply thread locking compound to the threads.
2. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning as you tighten the bolts.
3. the remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

 

Rear Main Oil Seal - Replacement

1. The transaxle must be removed for this procedure.
2. The seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or seal retainer. However, this method is not recommended because the lip of the seal is quite stiff and it's possible to cock the seal in the retainer bore or damage it during installation. If you want to take the chance, pry out the old seal. Apply a film of clean oil to the crankshaft seat journals and the lip of the new seal and carefully tap the new seal into place. The lip is stiff so carefully work it onto the seal journal of the crankshaft with a smooth object like the end of an extension as you tap the seal into place. Don't rush or you may damage the seal.
3. The following method is recommended bur requires removal of the oil pan and seal retainer.
4. After the oil pan has been removed, remove the bolts, detach the seal retainer and peel off all the old gasket material.
5. Position the seal and retainer assembly on a couple of wood blocks on a workbench and drive the old seal out from the back side with a punch and hammer.
6. Drive the new seal into the retainer with a block of wood or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the seal.
7. Lubricate the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new seal with clean engine oil. Position a new gasket on the engine block.
8. Slowly and carefully push the seal onto the crankshaft. The seal lip is stiff, so work it onto the crankshaft with a smooth object such as the end of an extension as you push the retainer against the block.
9. Install and tighten the retainer bolts. The bottom sealing flange of the retainer must not extend below the bottom sealing flange (oil pan rail) of the block.
10. the remaining steps are reverse of removal.
11. Run the engine and check for leaks.

 

Engine Mounts:

Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the drive-line components may cause damage or wear.

 

Check

1. During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove the weight from the mounts.
2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts.
3. Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened, or separated from the metal backing. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the centre. Check that the rod on the front mount is not bent.
4. Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.
6. Rubber preservative may be applied to the mounts to slow deterioration.

 

Replacement

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, the raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands (if not already done).
2. Remove the fasteners and detach the mount from the frame and the engine. Do not disconnect more than one mount at a time, except during engine removal.
3. The mounts are available as inserts, which are pressed into place. Obtain new inserts and take them to an auto shop to be pressed into the existing bracket.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

Scott,
BOOSTU.