Troubleshooting

The electrical system is a 12-volt, negative ground type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid-type battery which is charged by the alternator. It should be noted that when portions of the electrical are serviced, the cable should be disconnected from the negative battery terminal to prevent electrical shorts and/or fires.

A typical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both the battery and the chassis. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the problem is in a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections.

Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before troubleshooting it. The basic tools needed for electrical troubleshooting include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used), a continuity tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components.

Voltage Check Voltage checks should be performed if a circuit is not functioning properly. Connect one lead of a circuit tester to either to the negative battery terminal or a good known ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. If the bulb of the tester lights, voltage is present, which means that the part of the circuit between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point in which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the ACC or ON position.

Finding a Short One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test light or voltmeter in its place to the fuse terminals. There should be no voltage present in the circuit. Move the wiring harness from side to side while watching the test light. If the bulb goes on, there is a short to ground somewhere in that area, probably where the insulation has rubbed through. The same test can be performed on each component in the circuit, even a switch.

Ground Check Perform a ground test to to check whether a component is properly grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self-powered test light, known as a continuity tester, to a good known ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on, the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on, the ground is not good.

Continuity Check A continuity check is done to determine if there are any breaks in a circuit - if it is passing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the "power" end and a good ground), and if the test light comes on the circuit is passing current properly. If the light doesn't come on, there is a break somewhere in the circuit. The same procedure can be used to test a switch, by connecting the continuity tester to the power in and power out sides of the switch. With the switch turned ON, the test light should come on.

Finding An Open Circuit When diagnosing for possible open circuits, it is often difficult to locate them by sight because oxidation or terminal misalignment are hidden by the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition. Remember this when an open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple if you keep in mind that all electrical circuits are basically electricity running from the battery, through the wires, switches, relays, fuses and fusible links to each electrical component (light bulb, motor etc) and to ground, from which it is passed back to the battery. Any electrical problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from the battery.

Fuses

General Information The electrical circuits of the vehicles are protected by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links. The fuse block is located on the right side of the dashboard. Each of the fuses is designed to protect a specific circuit, and the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself. Miniaturized fuses are employed in the fuse block. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertip removal and replacement. If an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the element for evidence of damage. If a continuity check is called for, the blade terminal tips are exposed in the fuse body. Be sure to replace fuses with the correct type. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but only fuses of the proper rating should be used. Replacing a fuse with a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the fuse body.
If the replacement fuse immediately fails, don't replace it again until the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, this will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.

Fusible Links

General Information Some circuits are protected by fusible links. The links are used in circuits which are not ordinarily fused, such as an ignition circuit. Check the fusible links with an ohmmeter to verify that they aren't burned out. Be sure to disconnect the battery or the ohmmeter could be damaged. To replace a fusible link, first disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Unplug the burned out link and replace it with a new one. Always determine the cause for the overload which melted the fusible link before installing a new one.

Relays

General Information Several electrical accessories in the vehicle use relays to transmit the electrical signal to the component. If the relay is defective, the component will not operate properly. The various relays are grouped together in several locations under the dash, adjacent to the component, or in the engine compartment for convenience in the event of needed replacement. If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be removed and tested by an auto electrician. Defective relays must be replaced as a unit.

Turn Signal/Hazard Flashers

Check and Replacement 1. The turn signal/hazard flasher, a small canister shaped unit located under the dash in the wiring harness or fuse block, flashes the turn signals and hazard flashers.
2. When flasher unit is functioning properly, and audible click can be heard during its operation. If the turn signals fail on one side or the other and the flasher unit does not make its characteristic clicking noise, a faulty turn signal bulb is indicated.
3. If both turn signals fail to blink, the problem may be due to a blown fuse, a faulty flasher unit, a broken switch or a loose or open connection. If a quick check of the fuse box indicates that the turn signal fuse has blown, check the wiring for a short before installing a new fuse.
4. To replace the flasher, simply pull it out of the fuse box or wiring harness.
5. Make sure that the replacement unit is identical to the original. Compare the old one to the new one before installing it.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Ignition Switch

Removal and Installation 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the steering column covers.
3. Detach the electrical harness cable tie-straps.
4. Unplug the switch electrical connector.
5. Remove the screw and lower the ignition switch and harness assembly from the steering column.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Combination Switch

Removal And Installation 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the under cover panel and steering column cover.
4. Remove the retaining screws.
5. Trace the wiring harness down to the steering column to the connector. Cut the wiring tie-straps (if equipped), unplug the connector and slide the switch off the column.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Headlights Removal and Installation

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Sealed-beam Type
2. You may find it easy to remove the radiator grille.
3. Unscrew and remove the headlight bezel. Remove the headlight retainer screws, taking care not to disturb the adjustment screws.
4. Remove the mounting ring and pull the headlight out far enough to unplug the connector.
5. There will be two small springs you will have to un-clip.
6. Remove the headlight.
7. To install the headlight, plug the connector in, place the headlight in position, then install the retainer, screws and springs. Tighten the screws securely.
7. Install the radiator grille, if removed.

Bulb Type

Warning: The halogen gas filled bulbs used on these models are under pressure and may shatter if the surface is scratched or the bulb is dropped. Do not touch the surface of the bulb with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol or meths.
1. Open the hood. Unplug the electrical connector.
2. Reach behind the headlight assembly, grasp the retainer and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it,
4. Install the new bulb in the headlight assembly.
5. Install the retainer and turn it clockwise to lock it in place.
6. Plug in the electrical connector.

Headlights - Adjustment

Note: It is very important to have the headlights adjusted correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they could blind the driver of the incoming vehicle or cause a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12months and and every time a new headlight is installed or front end work is performed.

1. Headlights have two adjusting screws, one on the top controlling up and down movement and one on the side controlling left and right movement.
2. There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level surface in front of the wall.
3. Attach masking tape vertically to the wall in reference to the vehicle centre-line and the centre-lines of both headlights.
4. Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centre-line of the headlights. It'll be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away.
5. Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the trunk or cargo area.
6. Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment on sealed beam equipped models is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the beam left or right. The Cordia adjusting screws are located near the upper right and lower left hand corners of the headlight assembly.
7. With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centred with the exact centre just below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest affect on driver safety.

Bulb Replacement

1. The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws, which makes it a simple procedure to gain access to the bulbs.
2. On some lights, the lenses are held in by clips. On these, the lenses can be removed by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to pry them off.
3. Several types of bulbs are used. Some are removed by pushing in and turning counterclockwise. Others can simply be un-clipped from the terminals or pulled straight out of the socket.
4. To gain access to the instrument panel illumination or switch housing lights, the cluster or housing will have to be removed.

Speedometer Cable

Removal and Installation 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Unscrew the collar and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle.
3. Detach the cable from any routing clips in the engine compartment and pull it up if necessary to provide enough slack to allow disconnection from the speedometer.
4. Remove the instrument cluster screws, pull the cluster out, then disconnect the speedometer cable.
5. Detach the firewall grommet, pull the cable through into the engine compartment, then remove it from the vehicle.
6. Prior to installation, lubricate the speedometer end of the cable with spray-on speedometer cable lubricant (available at auto stores).
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. After installation, make sure the cable has a gentle bend where it enters the firewall grommet, or if there are any markings that are visible on the engine compartment side of the grommet or the cable could be kinked.

Instrument Cluster

Removal and Installation 1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the steering column cover, bezel and any other components which would interfere with removal.
4. Remove the retaining screws, then pull out the instrument cluster and disconnect the speedometer cable and electrical connectors.
5. To replace any faulty components within the cluster, simply unbolt or unscrew them with the new units.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Power Window System

Description and Check The power window system is often found on later model Cordias and operates the electric motors in the doors, which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors (regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring. Because of the complexity of the power window system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis and repair, it should be left to a properly equipped shop.
However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for minor faults which can easily be repaired. These include:
a) Inspecting the power window actuating switches and wiring for broken wires or loose connections.
b) Checking the power window fuse and/or circuit breaker.
c) Removing the door panel(s) and checking the power window motor wiring connections for looseness and damage, and inspecting the glass mechanisms for damage which could cause binding.

Best of luck!!

Scott,
BOOSTU.